The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Across the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a fence on